In the dynamic realm of London’s culinary scene, Akwasi Brenya-Mensa emerges as a pioneer, reshaping perspectives on African cuisine. With over a decade of experience as a restaurateur, street food operator, caterer and the creative force behind the acclaimed ‘Tatale’ restaurant, Akwasi aims to propel African cooking into the spotlight.
“When I was working as an artist manager for two years, I visited 30 countries. And that’s what really informed how I approach food in terms of connecting with people’s cultural heritage, in terms of grounding yourself in a new place, and as a means of familiarising yourself in new environments. Going to Ghana for the year of return in 2019, that’s when I decided that I wanted to apply that approach and process to my own heritage. And that’s when I started thinking about what the contemporary version of the food that I grew up eating or grew up helping my mom make looked like. That is essentially how Tatale was created.”
Akwasi’s familial roots extend back to the 1970s when both his parents migrated to England, bringing with them the flavours of Ghana and West Africa. Growing up as a second-generation immigrant in South London, Akwasi found himself drawn to the kitchen, accepting the role of his mother’s sous chef, slicing vegetables and pounding fufu. As the eldest of four boys with no sisters, he became the designated helper. This early exposure sparked a fascination with the transformative process of turning raw ingredients into delightful meals.
“I was aiming to create modern or future versions of our traditional dishes, and initially, I didn’t have specific end users in mind. However, if I were to envision one, it would have been people like myself who are from our homeland or born in the diaspora. We grew up with the traditions of our culture but also with exposure to diverse cuisines and dining experiences due to living in the West or other parts of the world. Unlike our parent’s generation that travelled to the diaspora, they didn’t really go out to eat so much, they had the ‘there is rice at home’ mentality.” Akwasi reflects on the inspiration behind Tatale, his latest culinary venture, a contemporary, Pan-African concept, telling stories through food, art and heritage.
During his university days in Sheffield, Akwasi’s culinary passion transcended mere necessity. During the challenges of student life, he embraced cooking as a creative outlet, orchestrating memorable meals from barbecues to dinner parties.
Now, with Tatale, Akwasi isn’t confined to a local market; he aspired to represent and celebrate African cuisine globally. Located at the African Center in London, Tatale is not just a restaurant; it’s a cultural union connecting people to diverse flavours. Tatale’s menu goes beyond conventional dining; it’s a narrative fostering conversations and cultural exchange. Serving as a haven for the African diaspora and those eager to explore African culture.
“I think there’s more visibility now, and more people are able to project themselves into the culinary industry, focusing on a variety of cultural flavours. This is because there is a bit more of a clear path to success, or more examples of success that weren’t there before.” Akwasi shares insights on the evolution of West African cuisine.
Reflecting on the representation of West African culture in London, Akwasi emphasises, “I think the culinary landscape is still underrepresented, wildly underrepresented… West African food has only been shown any care or attention in maybe the last five years, but the future looks bright.”
As Akwasi continues to champion African flavours and culture, he is not only actively reshaping perspectives but also fostering cultural exchange and pride within the African diaspora and beyond. With Tatale serving as a cultural union at the heart of London, Akwasi’s vision celebrates heritage and culinary innovation.
Looking to try out more tasty restaurants? Have a look at our article on SAVOURING AUTHENTIC GAMBIAN FLAVOURS: A Culinary Journey at Eazy Kitchen!