Christian Dior famously wrote in The Little Dictionary of Fashion “Tartan is probably the only fancy fabric that resists changing fashions”. Last week, Dior hosted their first show in Scotland since 1955 for their Cruise Collection, in which models took to the catwalk to showcase different bright coloured tartans, of reds, purples, and greens.
Dior’s collaboration of Scottish materials designed into old French styles such as corsets, overlapping lace, and structured capes, the BBC report , is an homage to the Auld Alliance between the Scots and the French. The designs were worn by models styled with long thick plaited hair, in a middle parting; some models were even adorned with a majestic map of Scotland. LMVH reports that some of the designs were inspired by Millefleurs motif from the Renaissance period which refers to patterns of delicate flowers drawn amongst the grass onto tapestry or, for Dior, onto elegant, laced dresses.
The runway led the models through the manicured gardens of Drummond Castle in Perthshire, Scotland. Styled with black buckled boots and large Celtic pendants, the dresses weren’t totally dissimilar to looks that showcased by Vivienne Westwood over the years – a brand who are emblematic of tartan designs and layered styles. Yet, Dior’s designs whilst embodying the same gothic punk style as classic Vivienne Westwood designs, upheld a distinctive elegance that the brand is respected for.
Dior’s Creative Director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, took to Instagram to showcase local Scottish designers, including @eskcashmere based in Annan, Southwest Scotland, detailing the cashmere mills manufacturing process: “the purity of the water allows for the production of high-quality Shetland yarn, which is particularly soft to the touch as opposed to the otherwise coarse hand which characterises traditional Shetland wool.” They announced a collaboration with the brand, featuring pieces with traditional Aran stitches and Fair Isle designs which featured on the catwalk. Chiuri also showcased a collaboration with @robertmackieofscotland, a designer established in 1845 who are built on a history of making traditional Glengarry and Balmoral headwear, known in Scotland as bonnets.
This modern take on Dior’s usual delicate and refined look of layered Scottish materials and collaborations with local Scottish brands shows that despite Dior’s global presence, the brand is still laying roots with independent brands.
Pictures: Stock Images
Designs: Pius Bentgens