Scrolling through TikTok as a fashion fan, it’s a common occurrence to stumble upon a charity shop haul video. Post after post showing vintage designer gems, all of which the creator boasts to have copped for ‘just £3!’. You’ll probably feel jealous that someone has managed to add of all these garments into their wardrobe without breaking the bank. That is, until you read the caption – ‘I think I’ll have to keep some of these pieces!’ – and the realisation dawns. They’re a reseller, and all of these items will be sold on Depop for ten times, if not more, of the price paid in charity shops.
It’s reselling like this that has contributed to the subsequent gentrification of the charity shop in recent years. Once a much-needed resource reserved for those on a budget, charity shops were stigmatised and branded ‘embarrassing’ by those who could afford not to use them before the rise of second-hand fashion. Second hand clothes were originally a Jewish trade, centred in Renaissance Venice. They were first donated to the poor at discount prices by the Salvation Army and the first Oxfam store opened it’s doors in 1948. The stigma attached then, came not only from the idea that they signified lack of wealth but also from a deep-rooted anti-Semitism within society. Now, however, SQLI Digital Experience found that 73% of UK adults are no longer embarrassed about shopping in charity shops and only one in four would still feel a stigma.
A number of factors have caused charity shops to leap in popularity; Mind mental health charity found that in the 48% of people in England and Wales who are using charity shops, 53% are doing so for financial reasons. Similarly, a 2023 YouGov poll found that financial concerns were the primary factor in using a charity shop due to the cost-of-living crisis. However, environmental concerns and the popularity of vintage look clothing are also spurring the increase. Data from the Charity Retail Association showed that in the first quarter of 2024, charity shop sales increased by 14.3 percent compared to the same period in 2023.
Although this rise has done much to combat fast fashion’s destruction of our planet, it’s effectively turned the charity shop into curated mini boutiques. Caireen Wackett, chief executive of Mary Portas consultancy, told the Retail Gazette last year that “Once it would have been surprising to find designer pieces in charity shops, now it’s a given” yet “we need to make sure that charity shops remain accessible at all price points. Designer is great but it must be part of the mix not the only offer.”
Most charity shops allow staff to set individual prices for their store, meaning that in affluent areas, prices will be higher. However, due to resellers travelling far and wide in search of the ultimate bargain, deprived areas are also experiencing rising costs as charities wise up to the possible resale value of their donations. Worn Ann Summers lingerie is sold on Depop at £35 a pop, deemed a ‘cute Y2K camisole’. Novelty t-shirts branded with ‘World’s best Dad’ are bumped up to £15, under the guise of an ‘edgy graphic tee’. Guinness tops given out as free uniform for bar staff can be sold for a fiver as ‘retro blokecore’ pieces. Nothing is off limits to to resellers.
As a result, small-budget shoppers are being forced out of charity shops and made to source clothing from cheap fast fashion outlets such as Shein. These sites are renowned for mistreatment of their workers and clothes are poorly made from cheap materials, meaning that they won’t last half as long as vintage from charity shops. This removes the option of sustainability for those on a budget and limits their ability to express personal style.
55-year-old Linda from Newcastle has been using charity shops since she was child and has noticed a rise in prices. “There’s been a massive change in trend with quality and prices. 40 years ago, people kept stuff in their wardrobes longer and would wear clothes over and over again,” she says. “Fashion is a lot more throwaway now. The range of things is naff now, as its all throw-away stuff you would’ve gotten in Primark years ago.”
A Mumsnet thread from last year titled ‘Charity shops aren’t doing themselves any favours’ had one user stating “They price second / third hand clothes similarly to the original RRP, sometimes even more expensive.” One user said “Who on earth, in a deprived Borough of London, is going to spend £30 on a top in a charity shop?” Multiple users agreed, concurring that they’re being forced to abandon charity shops in favour of sites like Vinted as clothes are cheaper, even with added postage. Vinted also has the added benefit of selling your own clothes for a profit.
Linda, too, sees the perks of Vinted over charity shopping. “People are tending to sell more stuff on Vinted, which could be because of the cost of living,” she says. “If you can sell 20 things for £2 each on Vinted it doesn’t sound a lot, but when you put it together, that £40 you make on Vinted a month may make a considerable difference to your quality of life.”
Of course, resellers aren’t the only factor contributing to charity shops rising prices. Shop running costs are also a prevalent issue; Charity Shop Survey 2023 pointed out a two percent increase in rental charges and a 16 percent increase in staff wages. Therefore, shops must put up the prices in order to keep stores afloat. Linda understands this as a charity shop supporter. “It’s good for the charity shops if they can get more money as high street rates have gone through the roof,” she says. “The more people they can get through the door who find it more acceptable to go charity shopping is great.”
While the role of a charity shop is not necessarily to serve those in need and is rather to raise money for the targeted charity, there’s no denying that the long running appeal of the shops has been bargain prices. Therefore, rising prices are not directly the fault of charity shops, as they must price their items accordingly to raise as much as possible. Rather, the blame partially falls to resellers. It’s a no-brainer that reselling a £6 trench coat for over £100 will cause a price increase at the original source.
In the comments sections of resellers TikTok’s, users are quick to question their morals. Is it entirely fair that they’re profiting from their charity shop haul? How much of the gentrification of charity shops can be attributed to reselling is currently unclear, though it seems likely that with the rise of reselling second-hand fashion, charity shop prices will continue to soar.