Drag style, a cultural vision of kings and queens out there, consists of without a doubt some of the most eclectic fashions aorund, not at least due to the desire to push gender boundaries and in protest of prejudice. Highlighting fluffy hair sprayed wigs, flamboyant make-up, and relatively avant-garde get ups as the default drag image at its pinnacle. All of which still ring true, but thanks to the innovative progressive of style make-up has become more precise and part of artistry, whilst these types of fashion have really begun to inspire and influence society in a powerful way of its own. With a growing number of artists committing to individualism, we see new styles emerging everywhere.
GiGi’s celebration of drag culture in the modern era showcases Kings, Queens, and Drag enthusiasts around the globe who talk to us about their eclectic fashion, and how it inspires their confidence.
THE LOOK: “Alien figure”
Recently, the invention of unique personas has become ever more daring, and drag enthusiasts are working to creatively manipulate the physiognomy of humans to dramatic effect.
Think Juno Birch, the Manchester based ‘stunning alien queen’, who spoke to Vogue for their Extreme Beauty Routine segment on Youtube, to demonstrate the methods behind her artistry. Using bright colours to mimic the exotic and unusual tone of our perceptions of aliens is something that’s becoming increasingly popular on the scene. It dubs pastel skin tones, sparkling contour and heavy highlights as the foundation of drag alien artistry. By covering the original skin tone, queens are able recreate the foreign being. She says, “I use stunning lavender tones to conceal all of the human. Then I contour with stronger purples to make the cheekbones even bigger”.
Then there’s Alaska Thunderfuck, the ‘well-travelled, campy extra-terrestrial, and winner of the second season of RuPaul’s Drag Race All Stars, who tells Vogue Paris about the origin of her character. Many queens are focusing on creating extravagant backstories for their personas in order to fully commit to their style. She says, “I have an endless well of creativity to draw from. I style my drag character as an alien from the planet Glamtron who has crashed landed onto Earth”. What we have now is the ability to question the human form through creative methods of self-expression. Demonstrating technical expertise works as a bonus, whilst Queens work to construct their own identity without the restriction of gender boundaries.
Pushing boundaries is Varjak Seoj, the drag alien, or “Bestia nocturna”, who loves to deconstruct the appearance of a human face with makeup. He says, “I aim to look as non-human as possible which makes total sense of my characters fantasies. It makes me feel invincible with the looks I create, and I think geometry is something is very important in terms of creating shapes.”
For Varjak Seoj, an obsessor of geometric MUA make-up, contortion drag has been much of a fascination for him. Manipulating the human structure has become one of his best talents. He’s found that highlighting bone structures with bold colours, and adding glow with make-up allows him to perfect alien drag. “I’ve always been obsessed with including geometric styles in my looks,’ He says. I love the elegance and the precision of the makeup. I’m inspired by so many drag artists out there, like Juno Birch, and the professional artist the Arseniek”.
Queens find inspiration for their alien drag style from futuristic television or films they idolised in childhood. “Inspiration for me was everywhere when I was child. I grew up watching Star Trek and loved the space travel. With the over-the-top aesthetics and stuff, cartoons like Ben 10 were like totally goals for me!” He laughs.
Looking for inspiration? Check out Juno Birch’s extreme alien beauty routine for Vogue here.
THE LOOK: “Butch bloke”
With experimental drag on the rise, drag kings enjoy playing characters with a bit of unpredictability. Eclectic styles carry an edge, and when it comes to women who perform masculinity, creating an alternative male persona can take a lot of work.
Exaggerated male features includes the enhancement of facial structures with copious amounts of contour, and investing in macho clothing and accessories to achieve the look, but always with an edge. The shift in what audiences perceive drag kings to be has transformed as of late. The greatest change, however, is access to better materials for shaping male attributes as cultures are becoming more aware of the necessity to cater for drag kings. Creating the look of the ‘butch bloke’ is becoming an easier feat as websites like Queerks and Amazon and Aliexpress, offering more male orientated products. We’re talking unisex vests, wigs, beards, and even adjustable harnesses for lovers of goth. Newcastle based Rex Uranus, ‘the toones funniest King’ says, “hands down my chest plate is my best investment. It saves on taping, skin irritation and makeup whilst it also helps to create the full butch male illusion I’ve always wanted. That and contour, I have since developed a signature look for Rex and his contour.”
Drag Kings credit their appearance as powerful expressions of their true personality. Shawty West, the Columbus drag king and content creator, looks to Usher, Miguel and social media for inspiration, whilst he credits his outfits for his increase in confidence. “I could not live without my glasses, any Juvia’s Place palette, and my beard. I gives me the swag that I love about my character,’ He says. ‘It’s fun and it fills me with confidence”.
Bjorn the Viking, the ‘UK based humble modern man’, credits his tattoos as the best indicators of his persona. “I can instantly tell an audience what kind of character I’ve created,’ He says. ‘For me tattoos are just as important as the clothes my persona chooses to wear, they work with all my looks as I love to flick between hyper masculine to quite feminine styles as well as throwing in twists of different decades.”
THE LOOK: “Clubkid & bold androgyny”
Clubkid finds its roots in the new romantic era of the 1980s, and recently, drag style has come to borrow elements of its colourful nature. Leigh Bowery, the Australian performance artist, is a prime example of a fashion pioneer in the context of Clubkid style. His outlandish costumes combined clashes of colour and unusual patterns to create his with wildly controversial outfits. Andy Howitt tells The Guardian “His looks were strikingly original. There was the polka dot suit worn with polka dot face. Coloured drips would cover his bald head”.
Today, Clubkid can be expressed in other ways that are less radical, with inspiration borrowed from other cultures, such as east Asian pop culture. As it happens, 21-year-old, drag enthusiast Megan Iris, Visual Artist and student at UAL Wimbledon College Of Art relies on her knowledge of Asian styles to demonstrate her love of bright colours. With bright colours being a key element of Clubkid style, we can see what’s influence her take on bold fashions. Iris talks to GiGi about her favourite brands that she looks to, to expand her wardrobe. She says, “I love Japanese street styles such as sweet Lolita Fashion which includes puffy dresses, cute patterns and blouses. Decora Kei fashion, the prominent Japanese fashion style, is also full of bright colours and lots of plastic accessories and Fairy Kei which is full of pastels”.
Similarly, to Seoj, Adel Corner, Drag queer artist from Guanajuato, Mexico, also credits the geometric look as a catalyst for his mood elevation But this time for the Clubkid look “I love using striking colour palettes, everything visually should be an explosion of colour,’ He says ‘My drag has distinctive makeup and I adore the little shiny details. From stones and geometric figures, to flowers I love using unconventional materials”.
Drag artists are taking ideas from 80s disco divas and rockers who experimented with androgyny despite their heterosexuality, which has proved to have had a positive effect on modern drag culture all round. Corner refers to this as he explains that he likes to be conceptual. “I like to choose a theme and to exaggerate it. I take references from the old school Clubkid and combine current circumstances.
Find some fabulous clothes!
Having trouble finding custom made or drag specific styles? GiGi appreciates it’s not always easy to find the exact style you’re looking for, Corner credits local designers like Aviesc, KweenFierce, and Benito Santos of Mexico. Whereas Iris points to Elizabeth Whibley, Laura Shannon and Tara Khozad for colourful pieces. We also wouldn’t rule out visiting a dressmaker to get something exclusive! Try out the Dress Doctor here.