I am at Central Saint Martins (CSM), one of the most prestigious art universities in the world. Surely they know what they’re talking about when it comes to fashion. As a French person, with a rather classic sense of style, the English are considered to be ‘eclectic’. In short, their fashion is not highly regarded, similarly to their taste in food. However, I find myself admiring the idea of going out of usual conventions. Here, it isn’t tweed or loafers but rather jeans under-the-skirt outfits, even for men. This is the future, and London has already been embracing it for a while. Let’s hear what some of its students have to say about fashion.
I met Sammy, 21, a third-year fashion design student specialising in womenswear. He has a passion for mixing different types of textiles. Whatever that means, he definitely has an eye for it. Sammy knew exactly what cotton was used for the clothes I was wearing, and I believed every word he said like he was some sort of fashion dictionary. He tells me that maximalism is the big thing.“We’re going big. Eyewear brands are making huge colourful glasses, we’re wearing cowboy boots, and the ‘eclectic grandpa’ style is an inspiration for 15-year-old girls.” Apparently, this has also caught up to high fashion brands, such as Louis Vuitton, with Pharrell Williams as their creative director. “Have you seen their latest Men’s show? Bright pink bags, huge sunglasses and cow-printed boots were everywhere. It’s fun, that’s globally what’s in trend.”
Microtrends
Microtrends have been at an all-time high due to TikTok. One day you can be coquette, the next you’ll be gorpcore. I question people who want to try out every possible look because you can’t possibly be dressing authentically if you have ten different styles. I asked Edith, 20, who studies fashion journalism, what she thought about these trends. “If you delete the app, you’re not going to miss much, because, in the end, it’s all too minimal to really make a difference in fashion history. I don’t know if it’s necessarily a bad thing, apart from mass consumption. People are spending money on items that they will wear twice; social media and capitalism are definitely the ones to blame. The mob wife trend made me laugh, it literally glamorised being solely based on your husband’s career.”
Charlotte, 20, a first year Fashion Design student, adds that she too feels there are too many, which are just a representation of capitalist society. She hates the quiet luxury trend, which has been very on the rise these days. “It’s the most classist thing I’ve ever come across. I mean even if I had all the money in the world, I would probably never buy a £900 brown cashmere sweater. It’s all about showing off between a certain sphere, like: those who know, know. It’s a good representation of society, and in my opinion, is so terribly sad.” Charlotte believes that fashion shouldn’t only be about fine materials but exploring our own style.
British fashion
As I was asking these Central Saint Martins students questions about fashion, I admired their sense of unique style. Not that I have never seen art students before, but I think where we are in the world makes a difference. Sammy shares that his style has evolved, coming from the South of France, because London is such a big city. “Nobody cares if you’re wearing Moon Boots in October, everybody is thinking about themselves. The French stereotype is that the English don’t know how to dress, because they’re not as ‘elegant’ as us. But I think they’re much more daring, as they don’t necessarily have the unspoken rules which keep them in a certain ‘decency’.” We all agreed that walking around CSM is special in terms of fashion, and you undeniably feel bad if you show up in jeans and a shirt.
Charlotte hasn’t travelled a lot, but not being originally from London, she’s still surprised at how ‘extravagant’ people can dress here. “I think big cities in general bring so much more to the table, and London is home to so many different cultures which is what makes the fashion so great.” Small English towns aren’t known for making big fashion innovations, unless we’re talking about Wellington boots and Barbour jackets.
The English capital is known to have developed many subcultures, such as dandies, hippies, and of- course punks. Charlotte states that the London punk movement inspired her the most. “I think it is inspiring because it’s part of our culture as Brits, especially in my family. My father was a punk, and although now he is what we call an ‘average middle-class man’, his youth during the seventies always intrigued me. Nowadays, we’ve lost this mix of cultures, and I don’t think social media will ever equal this.” Some remember Camden as the heart of London’s ‘funky’ style, where everyone would flaunt their own fashion aesthetic, now it’s tourists and those two drunk punks…
The beauty of it all is that there are schools like CSM which continue to foster creativity and innovation within fashion. London fashion is what it is because of its cultural diversity, and the mix of nationalities within the school is a key factor to this effervescence of creativity.
Edith remembers when she got the offer from Saint Martins in August 2021, she didn’t even know how to put her excitement into words and spent the whole afternoon staring at the acceptance letter. She told me that CSM was “always the first option, and because it’s world-renowned, we also have the best of the best in terms of teaching. That undeniably, is what makes CSM what it is, the worldwide influences and the overall quality of teaching. We actually work a lot, the rumours are true.” Charlotte also adds that: “After several sleepless nights, you’re hanging on to passion. With so many talented people around, you’re pushed to always explore new techniques.”
The iconic history
To backup this prestigious reputation, it’s hard to find CSM alumni that haven’t made a significant contribution to the fashion industry. Sammy shares that fashion designer John Galliano, who graduated from Saint Martins in 1984 with first class honours, has inspired him the most.
“He came from nothing and, solely because of his talent, he became who he is today. He isn’t British but immigrated here with his family, so his education is very English. After Central Saint Martins, he debuted his first collection in one of the first London Fashion shows. I think the British culture in general is very engraved in what he does now even though he has left London. However, Vivienne Westwood, who didn’t attend CSM, is the epitome of London fashion in all its punk glory.”
Edith dreams of an internship at Chanel. They recently held their ‘Métiers D’Art’ 2023/2024 collection in Manchester, which was a surprise for many at first but really was the perfect match. As the birthplace of both rave culture and Britpop, ‘Vogue’ writes that Manchester has been “influencing Britain’s style DNA for generations.” Of course, we can all agree with Edith’s statement: “Manchester is the opposite to Paris’s Place Vendôme, but that’s what made it a fashion moment.” The locals were definitely surprised to spot the most high-profile celebrities while on a night out at their local pub.
Nowadays, all fashion brands are looking at sustainability, and how we can make fashion more eco-responsible. It already plays a huge role in what they create. Edith sees sustainability as ‘THE’ most important factor when designing. “We are slowly as a society understanding that mass consumption in fashion isn’t possible anymore. Quality over quantity. We are far from ending fast fashion, but we’re getting there.”
What is success in the fashion industry?
Finally, I asked all three of my interviewees what they thought was their number one tip for success in the fashion industry. Success can have a different meaning for everyone, especially within the fashion industry. We all know it’s hard to make a place for yourself, but they’re on the right track. The idea of staying true to yourself was the answer that always came back. “Authenticity will always make you stand out in general, so it’s essential to make your branding about you in every sense of the way”, says Sammy. “There is a fine line between being inspired and going your own way, I think a mix of both is crucial because teamwork is key. Even the best were inspired by someone or something else, but they made it their own.”