For most, vintage fashion is no more than an Internet craze. But for the planet, it’s a potential saviour.
More and more shoppers are seeking refuge from the avalanche of transient fast-fashion trends at the one place where singularity and sentimentality still exist: vintage stores. The growing demand for clothes that span the decades proves that fashion, not unlike fine wine, gets better with age.
Of course, vintage garments are a sure way to elevate your wardrobe, but their appeal goes far beyond aestheticism. A 2021 report by the World Economic Forum found that fashion accounts for five percent of the planet’s greenhouse gas emissions, making it the third largest polluter in the world. Buying vintage is a benchmark for the conscious consumerism that is imperative in slowing down the climate crisis.
Most galvanised by the mass destruction caused by mass-production is Gen Z, and their turn to sustainability is steadfast: nearly two in three fast-fashion shoppers are determined to buy more secondhand clothing, according to a 2022 resale report by online store ThredUp. Inspiring as these figures may be, it is important that sustainability is not simplified into a #Y2K gimmick or #retro trend. Doing so not only undermines the pursuit, but also legitimises its capitalistic exploitation.
The rise of largely unregulated resale platforms like Depop and Poshmark has resulted in price inconsistencies, with users paying well-above-average prices for mediocre wares. Young sellers – most of whom lack knowledge on what classifies as true vintage – buy cheap items from charity shops so as to set obscene profit margins. This upward trend, which is not dissimilar to the ethos of overinflation in fast-fashion, has been dubbed the ‘gentrification of Depop’ by social media critics. TikTok user Naomi El told Dazed that the exponential increase of prices on the app ‘justifiably forces [people] to shop fast fashion.’ But I’m here to tell you that we don’t have to resort to that.
Ahead, we shortlist seven vintage stores in London that can double as starting points for your journey of shopping sustainably.
1. Lovers Lane Vintage (Notting Hill)
When it comes to the rarities of haute couture, this unassuming store delivers. Take for example the iconic 1998 Maison Margiela Tote Bag dress, which can only be found in three places: a costume archive at the Metropolitan Museum, an exhibition at the Palais Galliera and a tightly-filled rack at Lovers Lane Vintage. Though dresses and corsets start at £90, the store also offers £15 boxes generously stocked with miscellaneous garments.
2. Past Trash (Covent Garden)
Don’t be fooled by its mid-century interiors, Past Trash is a sartorial sanctuary for ‘90s and ‘00s archives. Among its offerings are leather jackets, kitten heels and slip dresses á la Girl, Interrupted-era Winona Ryder. You’ll also find an eclectic collection of housewares that include marble ashtrays, flower-shaped ceramics and vintage drinking sets.
3. Duke’s Cupboard (Soho)
After 11 years in the business, Duke’s Cupboard is a tried-and-tested source for the freshest streetwear finds. Whether it’s BAPE, Stussy, Supreme or Evisu that you’re after, this store has got it. You’ll also enjoy a cool curation of vintage graphic tees emblazoned with anyone and anything from Eminen to The Simpsons to Andy Warhol pop art.
4. Nude Lagoon (Deptford)
Nude Lagoon is home to all things kitschy. And by kitschy, I mean deadstock Miss Sixty, zebra print Guess bags and Roberto Cavalli jeans. Suffice to say, this Southeast London store is a must-visit for Y2K fanatics. In case you can’t make it to the store, check out its website for equally rare finds.
5. Past Times Chic (Notting Hill)
If you’re in need of a slip dress for spring, look no further than Past Times Chic and its vast selection of upcycled lingerie. Owner Tongie revamps forgotten fabrics into whimsical pieces, ranging from satin separates, lace-trimmed camisoles and babydoll dresses. Prices start at £10 – a bargain for a negligee that could be mistaken for La Perla.
6. 2o2st (Soho)
Held on a bimonthly basis, 2o2st is a pop-up market run out of founder Mya Nicole’s family building. Online vintage sellers and independent designers gather at the Soho space to showcase an exciting array of hand-selected and handmade pieces. Each pop-up invites a different set of merchants, so you’re bound to discover emerging labels aplenty. Don’t forget to head over to 2o2st’s Instagram page for updates on its next event.
7. West Archive (Hackney)
The hunt for vintage designer ends at West Archive, where you’ll find the biggest names in fashion; Issey Miyake, Anna Sui and Tom Ford-era Gucci included. In case you’re not ready to splurge, the Hackney-based store also boasts a glamorous selection of pieces that are exclusively available to rent for editorials, photoshoots and events.
All images, Ⓒ unsplash.